Shark Diving in Fiji.
March 14th 2008 07:15
My husband and I recently went to Fiji. Ostensibly we were there for a friend’s wedding, but we took the opportunity to get underwater and see some of Fiji’s fantastic dive sites.
We did a lot of diving around the coral coast, which lives up to its name. There are sheer walls with 300 meter drop offs (this is what the guide tells us and hell, we couldn’t see the bottom, so we believed him) that are lined with soft and hard corals, sponges, ascidians etc.
We dived with South Pacific Adventure Divers (SPAD). They were extremely accommodating and great fun to dive with – shout outs to Akira, Sono and Douglas!!!
We also did a bit of diving at Beqa. There are wrecks, ribbon eels, reef sharks, nudibranchs and corals to astound the eye.
What has to be our most memorable pair of dives, were the shark feeding dives, with Aquatrek. The boat was jam packed with divers – Australians, Americans, Brits – all excited about the dives to come. The shark feeding dives have been taking place in Fiji for years and it soon became apparent that the local fish know where the chow is being served. Remora swarmed on the surface when we reached the site and the staff threw the tethered bins of shark food (fish off cuts etc) overboard.
The first feeding area is at 27 meters and is paved and roped, to keep the fish and the people apart. We divers kneel and hold onto the rope, looking like the unpopular kid at the party, waiting to be invited to join in. The staff swim around with steel ‘crooks’, protecting the paying guests!! Not that the sharks are in any way interested in us.
The food is tipped out of the bin onto the pavers and suddenly it is difficult to see anything with so many fish schooling. Remoras compete with Tailor and Jacks and a myriad of other fish for mouthfuls of the bounty. Watching on in amazement, you see fish suddenly leave the area and a big fish swims out of the blue. The little guys close the gap behind it.
Anyone who dives knows that at that depth, the colour red is completely gone. Anything red will look green. It was fantastic to see the big cloud of ‘green’ blood in the water after they emptied the bins. (Incidentally, I was viciously jabbed on the knee by an anonymous little beastie on this dive – I was wearing shorts because the water is so warm – and the ‘red’ lumps this attack elicited were fascinating green lumps whilst I was underwater).
Six foot Bull Sharks, Lemon Sharks and an enormous Tawny Nurse were the sharks who were hungry that day. They sometimes get a Tiger Shark come in for a nibble, but we were not lucky enough to see her. The Bull Sharks swim around each other – utterly disdaining the little fish – and swoop in to take bites from the pile of fish remains. Amazingly, you see them give way to one and other. They clearly have a hierarchy and they posture (pointing their pectoral fins downwards) in an effort to intimidate. The lemon shark, by way of contrast, simply glides around the site, with several ‘stripeys’ preceding her in a cloud around her face (yellow and black striped fish, which must be exceptionally annoying because they appear attached to her). She is definitely calm in comparison to the swiftly moving Bull Sharks. I guess she has a Zen belief in there being enough for everyone.
The safety stop for this dive (at 5 meters) is a coral garden, which (were it anywhere else) would be a fantastic dive site on its own. My husband and I spotted a ribbon eel and several different nudibranchs, in the three or four minutes we spent de-gassing.
Climbing aboard the boat at the surface interval was like walking into a classroom without a teacher (minus the spit balls). Everyone was talking at once and reliving the experience of watching these huge fish feeding. The staff do this twice a week – they’ve seen it all before, but you could see them smile at us and our excitement.
The second dive is at 24 meters and in an area where there is no pavers set down. At this site, when the sharks come in and feed, they stir up the bottom, making the water very soupy and reducing the vis. This has a dual effect. Firstly it is a bit of a bummer, because it makes it hard to see the sharks on the other side of the site. But it also makes it hard to see the sharks – so they seem to emerge from the murk, right in front of you. Kind of like a 3D movie. Very cool.
Both dives were spectacular. I could not recommend this highly enough. If you like diving and sharks, this is a must do.
Now we know why Lister wanted to go there.
Ps; apologies for the poor photos, we spent most of these dives taking videos, not stills.
We did a lot of diving around the coral coast, which lives up to its name. There are sheer walls with 300 meter drop offs (this is what the guide tells us and hell, we couldn’t see the bottom, so we believed him) that are lined with soft and hard corals, sponges, ascidians etc.
Flatworm. Coral Coast Fiji
We dived with South Pacific Adventure Divers (SPAD). They were extremely accommodating and great fun to dive with – shout outs to Akira, Sono and Douglas!!!
We also did a bit of diving at Beqa. There are wrecks, ribbon eels, reef sharks, nudibranchs and corals to astound the eye.
Ribbon eel. Beqa, Fiji
What has to be our most memorable pair of dives, were the shark feeding dives, with Aquatrek. The boat was jam packed with divers – Australians, Americans, Brits – all excited about the dives to come. The shark feeding dives have been taking place in Fiji for years and it soon became apparent that the local fish know where the chow is being served. Remora swarmed on the surface when we reached the site and the staff threw the tethered bins of shark food (fish off cuts etc) overboard.
Shark food. Fiji
The first feeding area is at 27 meters and is paved and roped, to keep the fish and the people apart. We divers kneel and hold onto the rope, looking like the unpopular kid at the party, waiting to be invited to join in. The staff swim around with steel ‘crooks’, protecting the paying guests!! Not that the sharks are in any way interested in us.
One of our protectors. Fiji
The food is tipped out of the bin onto the pavers and suddenly it is difficult to see anything with so many fish schooling. Remoras compete with Tailor and Jacks and a myriad of other fish for mouthfuls of the bounty. Watching on in amazement, you see fish suddenly leave the area and a big fish swims out of the blue. The little guys close the gap behind it.
Anyone who dives knows that at that depth, the colour red is completely gone. Anything red will look green. It was fantastic to see the big cloud of ‘green’ blood in the water after they emptied the bins. (Incidentally, I was viciously jabbed on the knee by an anonymous little beastie on this dive – I was wearing shorts because the water is so warm – and the ‘red’ lumps this attack elicited were fascinating green lumps whilst I was underwater).
Six foot Bull Sharks, Lemon Sharks and an enormous Tawny Nurse were the sharks who were hungry that day. They sometimes get a Tiger Shark come in for a nibble, but we were not lucky enough to see her. The Bull Sharks swim around each other – utterly disdaining the little fish – and swoop in to take bites from the pile of fish remains. Amazingly, you see them give way to one and other. They clearly have a hierarchy and they posture (pointing their pectoral fins downwards) in an effort to intimidate. The lemon shark, by way of contrast, simply glides around the site, with several ‘stripeys’ preceding her in a cloud around her face (yellow and black striped fish, which must be exceptionally annoying because they appear attached to her). She is definitely calm in comparison to the swiftly moving Bull Sharks. I guess she has a Zen belief in there being enough for everyone.
Bull Shark. Fiji
Bull Shark. Fiji
Bad photo of the Lemon Shark and her entourage of stripeys. Fiji. Sorry.
The safety stop for this dive (at 5 meters) is a coral garden, which (were it anywhere else) would be a fantastic dive site on its own. My husband and I spotted a ribbon eel and several different nudibranchs, in the three or four minutes we spent de-gassing.
Climbing aboard the boat at the surface interval was like walking into a classroom without a teacher (minus the spit balls). Everyone was talking at once and reliving the experience of watching these huge fish feeding. The staff do this twice a week – they’ve seen it all before, but you could see them smile at us and our excitement.
Fijian nudibranchs
The second dive is at 24 meters and in an area where there is no pavers set down. At this site, when the sharks come in and feed, they stir up the bottom, making the water very soupy and reducing the vis. This has a dual effect. Firstly it is a bit of a bummer, because it makes it hard to see the sharks on the other side of the site. But it also makes it hard to see the sharks – so they seem to emerge from the murk, right in front of you. Kind of like a 3D movie. Very cool.
Both dives were spectacular. I could not recommend this highly enough. If you like diving and sharks, this is a must do.
Now we know why Lister wanted to go there.
Ps; apologies for the poor photos, we spent most of these dives taking videos, not stills.
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Comment by Jarrah
Back to the Eighties
I have mm PADI, and I have been to FIji, but that was before I had it!
So I'll have to go back.
Skin dived every reef I could though, great stuff.
Aside from the diving though - great country! Absolute gem, I love it and recommend it to anyone - but get to the outer islands! Dont just stay in a resort.
- Jarrah
Back to the Eighties
www.backtotheeighties.net
Comment by Lilla
From The Home Front
Enviro Warrior
Dream Herald
Esoteric Bookshop
I have never used a tank, but went snorkling out on the Great BArrier Reef for my honeymoon, here in Oz.
I will never forget the experience and these pics of yours really took me back to the beautiful sights I saw in my own adventure.
I have to diagree with you on the 'bad' lemon shark shot... he/she/it is amazing and perhaps the first time I can REALLY see a 'personality' of a sentient being/thing/creature.
Wow, I'm quite gobsmacked... it's almost like a negative image and the eyes have it all... I would go so far as to say, quite cute ((laughs)) in a chilling maternal, mother-from-hell type way?
Great story, thanks for sharing.
Lilla ...
Comment by Kim Lock
Diving About
Yes. You will have to go back.
Even before we left we were planning our next trip there. It is a truly beautiful country, with fantastic people and excellent diving. Can't really ask for more.
Lilla, It truly is enchanting. I love a good snorkel - sometimes there is no need to use a tank...
Kim
Comment by Lilla
From The Home Front
Enviro Warrior
Dream Herald
Esoteric Bookshop
I crack myself up sometimes ... I have just looked at that picutre of the shark again, this time with my glasses on *chuckle* and those eyes?
Well they are little fishes, aren't they?
((laughs)) still a magical place and creature and I just love that ribbon eel - always something new to see...talking of seeing ..... *LOL*
'see' you again soon
Lilla ...
Comment by Kim Lock
Diving About
You had me confused for a moment there!!!! haha. Actually it is a good example of how utterly unalike different perspectives can be.
It's all good!!
Kim
Comment by Neems
Koala Lounge
Truth Whisperer
neems x
Comment by Kim Lock
Diving About
Have a great time!!! Make sure you get wet!!!
Kim
Comment by Harry
Sydney Diary
Personals
Brisbane Diarystar
Zoo Parent